Humpback whale (Megaptera novaeangliae) fluke with fishing boats in background.

© naturepl.com / Espen Bergersen / WWF

Features

Bolstering ecotourism in East Greenland

  • Communities
  • Greenland

East Greenland is like no other place on Earth. Its enormous glaciers, deep fjords and rugged terrain has kept it relatively isolated from the rest of the country—and from the world. Its remoteness also means it’s sparsely populated, with only about 16 per cent of Greenland’s population living there.

Most of the 3,500 residents who call East Greenland home follow a traditional way of living. They have always turned to the ocean for their food, hunting ringed seals as well as beluga and narwhal. But is becoming harder as climate change puts pressure on marine populations and whale hunting bans and quotas are increasingly being introduced in the country.

More and more, tourism is being viewed as a way to bolster the economy and provide residents with much-needed jobs. The big question: How to expand East Greenland’s tourism industry without harming the pristine environment that makes the region special?

Iceberg, near Tasiilaq, Greenland Sea.

Looking to tourism to fuel the economy

To ensure tourism in East Greenland grows in a way that is sustainable for both the people and species that live there, WWF is looking to Iceland for inspiration. Just 300 kilometres across the Denmark Strait, Iceland has a flourishing nature-based tourism industry. In fact, since 2010, the number of tourists visiting the country each year has quadrupled.

Map of Greenland with locations of communities Ittoqqortoormiit and Tasiilaq highlighted.

Graphic: Ketill Berger; © WWF Global Arctic Programme

A group of men standing and talking dressed for temperature approximately 15 °C.

© Konkordia Gabriel Sørensen

As part of the Arctic Biodiversity Initiative, WWF’s Greenland office launched the “Two Landscapes” project to learn from Iceland’s experience with tourism. In May 2023, a group of tour operators from Tasiilaq and Ittoqqortoormiit headed to Iceland for a five-day visit: Mette Pike Barselajsen (Manager, Nanu Travel), Anthon Salomonsen (Front office manager, Hotel Angmassalik), Rasmus Poulsen (owner, Tasiilaq Tours) and Sivert Nuko, (Captain, Arctic Dream). 

Sustainability in tourism is about preserving the environment so that tourists will also appreciate it. We can showcase nature and culture, and tourism supports culturally sustaining initiatives.

– Rasmus Poulsen, owner, Tasiilaq Tours

A group of tourists whale watching in Iceland.

© Belén García Ovide

Tapping into the potential of whale watching

Whale watching is big business in Iceland. One in five tourists who visit the country take part in the activity, generating approximately $USD12 million annually. And if you want to get a close up look at whales in Iceland, the picturesque town of Húsavík is the place to go—making a must-see destination for the group of East Greenlanders.

To get a taste of what whale watching in Iceland has to offer, the group headed out on the Nàttfari, one of North Sailing’s 11 boats. Back when North Sailing got started in 1995, it was the only whale -watching company in town. Today, they are one of four.

Boats in the harbour in Húsavík, Iceland. Whale watching is big business in Iceland. And if you want to get a close up look at whales in Iceland, the picturesque town of Húsavík is the place to go.

© Rasmus Poulsen

What sets North Sailing apart is that it focuses on having as little impact as possible on the whales and their environment. The company uses beautiful, old restored fishing vessels, and its guides are all students with an interest in whales, such as marine biologists or veterinary students. To reduce underwater noise, North Sailing has also worked with other Icelandic and Nordic partners to develop a new electrical system that allows wind power to charge their boats’ electric engines.

Three images of people on or by whale watching touring boats in Iceland.

© Rasmus Poulsen

Group of tourists on a whale watching tour in Húsavík, Iceland. Tourists are looking over the edge of the boat for whales.

© Konkordia Gabriel Sørense

Seeing North Sailing’s operation firsthand gave the group of East Greenland tour operators some food for thought. Although whale watching tours currently set sail out of East Greenland’s biggest town, Tasiilaq, the industry is nowhere near the scale found in Húsavík. But the group discovered  that being “small” might not be such a bad thing.

While on their whale watching tour in Húsavík, their boat was one of several circling a lone humpback whale. With some 100 passengers onboard, the tour also seemed somewhat impersonal compared to what visitors experience in East Greenland.

What this demonstrated to the group was that growth comes at a cost—something they’ll need to consider if they want to ensure their whale watching industry doesn’t harm the animals that are drawing tourists there in the first place.

I saw the influence of mass tourism, where many boats chased the same whale, which wasn’t an authentic experience. At home, we offer more personal tours, approaching the whales respectfully and without unnecessary disturbance.

– Rasmus Poulsen, owner, Tasiilaq Tours

A whale skeleton at a museum that is over 25 meters long.

© Rasmus Poulsen

Looking to educate tourists

While in Húsavík, the group also visited the town’s other big attraction: the Whale Museum. Overlooking Húsavík’s colorful harbour, the museum is one of the most-visited places in northern Iceland, attracting some 40,000 visitors each year. Although it started out small when it opened its doors in 1997, today it houses 11 whale skeletons scattered over two floors, including a whale skeleton that is 25 metres long. For the group of East Greenlanders, the museum was one of the highlights of the trip, opening their eyes to the possibility of adding this type of tourist attraction in Tasiilaq as a way to educate visitors and promote conservation.

There are definitely elements that could be implemented at home, such as museums or educational centers. But we also need to think about how we can do this in a way that suits our local community and resources.

– Rasmus Poulsen, owner, Tasiilaq Tours

Group photo of East Greenlanders visiting Iceland to learn about their ecotourism practices.

© Konkordia Gabriel Sørensen

Working together to build a stronger tourism industry

One of the group’s biggest takeaways was how those in Iceland’s tourism industry work together to understand both the benefits and potential negative impacts of their activities—something that needs to be taken into account when expanding tourism in East Greenland.

The strong collaboration between different companies and organizations in Iceland was inspiring.

– Anthon Salomonsen, Hotel Angmassalik, Tasiilaq

For instance, to ensure that whale watching tours don’t have harmful effects on the whales and their habitat, Iceland’s tour operators created IceWhale. The organization has developed a code of conduct for tour operators, with the aim of increasing the sustainability of whale watching in Iceland. They also hold campaigns to educate tourists about whale conservation efforts. One example is the “Meet Us Don’t Eat Us” project, which works to dissuade visitors from consuming whale meat and seeks to gain their support to protect whales by ending commercial whaling.

Humpback whale (Megaptera novaeangliae) breaching off the coast of Kodiak Island, Alaska.

© Keith Arnold /WWF-US

Another big takeaway from the group’s visit to Iceland was the need for education. Most East Greenlanders only speak Tunumiisut, or East Greenlandic. Very few people speak Danish, let alone English. To build tourism in the region, language education needs to be offered, especially for young people interested in working in the industry. Those in the industry also need to learn more about tourism practices, such as marketing, pricing and product positioning. Iceland’s Hóldar University plans to offer a one-year tourism diploma course in English, which could be a future option for East Greenlanders interested in working in the industry.

The tour gave me new inspiration and insight into how things can be done differently. It’s important to bring these ideas home and adapt them to our own context to create a sustainable and rewarding tourist experience.

-Rasmus Poulsen, owner, Tasiilaq Tours

A man, Åge Hammeken Danielsen, a traditional hunter, drives his sled dogs through Walrus Bay, Ittoqqortoormiit, East Greenland in the snow.

© James Morgan / WWF-UK

Avoiding the pitfalls of overtourism

For the East Greenland tour operators, the trip to Iceland offered an invaluable opportunity to come together to see how best to develop their region’s nature-based tourism industry in a sustainable manner. Since their visit, the group has already gathered together in Tasiilaq to come up with next steps, such as enhancing road infrastructure, increasing education, and developing an international marketing campaign.

With Greenland currently building three new airports—in Nuuk, Ilulissat, and Qaqortoq—there’s no question the region will see more visitors in the near future. But thanks to this project, those in East Greenland’s tourism industry might be prepared to welcome visitors in a way that boosts their economy without harming the environment. By helping tour operators in East Greenland plan ahead, WWF hopes to ensure the region can avoid the pitfalls of overtourism—and protect the pristine Arctic waters, glaciers and fjords that make the region so special.

Aeriel photo of the colourful houses of Ittoqqortormit, a remote settlement in Eastern Greenland.

© James Morgan / WWF-UK

By WWF Global Arctic Programme

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